Applying epoxy on shed concrete floor

[CSParnell]

I started out around a month ago the transformation taking my 3 car shed for which I used to restore cars in and putting it through the transformation  to become a man shed that is setup for my kids as well with aim for a projector, table tennis, TV, PA system for karaoke nights and guitar nights, my already built Kombi bar that doubles as a DJ Booth.

So first off I had to get rid of the remaining VWs, the excess of tools that were required for restoration that I won't need, strip everything out and loads to the tip.

I moved the rest of my gear to my other sheds then I began.

With my kids we scraped up some stick down vinyl planks I put down years ago, I can tell you and this is the second time I have removed this stuff if you EVER plan of taking it up then NEVER put it down to start with the glue is horrible, it took 2Lt of glue remover, Acid wash and a floor grinder to remove it.

 

I attacked all the high points of dropped car bog and blobs of paint with a paint strip grinding disc and the  was hopeful that a good acid wash would get the rest but no such luck it just bubbled and I didn't want to take the chance of reaction so I hired a concrete grinder.

 

Now I didn't hire the Bunnings concrete grinder because Coats Hire is nowhere near me and that is where pickup is, I hired one through another company and on advice they gave me one around the same size, after 4hrs and barely scratching the surface they realised that I required the one double the size weighing in at 120kg which ripped through it in 4hrs. So if you have a surface looking like mine you need the Satellite 120kg grinder not the baby one.

 

I hit the with the paint stripping disc and that worked fine .

I didn't bother acid washing again as the surface was now very porous.

 

I bought 2 x Slate Grey flake epoxy kits from Bunnings 

 The instructions are easily followed and the instructions video good, I had also watched some other YouTube vids from floor contractors and got some tips from a fellow guy at work that used to do these floors on how not to roll just in straight lines but mix up straight, diagonal and so on.

I mixed up the first batched and was stressing the 2 kits would not be enough but I was brushing on the edges in a good coverage and rolling on a good coverage.

I had my lovely wife throwing the flake and this is important to have that second hand to do that, it is also important to always cut back over your wet edges so don't leave them to long before coming back to that section.

For coverage I ended up only using paint from one kit, no idea how it went on well and I was careful that there was no see through sections, I could have done another coat but the flake was already on. 

We did use the flake from both kits though.

Bonus for us the Garage get painted next just need some flake.

I'm pretty happy with this kit from Bunnings but I'm going to say its all in the preparation like anything, take the time or take no short cuts it will be worth it.

 

Looking forward to updating you all once I start fitting the Man Cave out next

And the already built Kombi Bar I did some time ago

 

[CSParnell]

@MitchellMc Already started automating the fans, lights, bar, movie theatre, door contact, temp sensor control. 😉

[Silkyoak]

Great job and excellent VW bar! I still use my workshop, unpainted concrete, for carpentry so wondering if saw dust on epoxy would be slippery? 

[CSParnell]

@Silkyoak I would say it would be 

[Silkyoak]

Thanks for your advice. Unpainted concrete is probably the safest for an active workshop but I do like your clean and tidy shed.

[Battman]

Great advice, thank you. I have a 'mudroom' that is very uneven, used to be an external path in the distance past and has bee painted several times. Needs grinding back. But this is the on ly finish I can think of to get a good result. Regards, Don

[EricL]

Hello @Battman (Don)

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. Thank joining the discussion.

Have you considered using Dingo 20kg Self-Levelling Cement to fix the uneven level of your floor? It is a much easier repair option than grinding away the concrete, which often creates a great deal of concrete dust and debris. Once the floor is level you can seal it with Crommelin 1L Natural Finish Penetrating Sealer And Water Repellent. It's water repellant and retains the natural appearance of the substrate & does not increase surface slipperiness.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[rocker]

Love your project, @CSParnell.  

Does the new floor finish off gas much? 

Do you think the epoxy needs a coating to protect the flake finish?

[CSParnell]

@rocker 

None at all and that's because it's a 2 part product like 2 pack paint so it has a hardner unlike single pack that relays on oxygen to cure over time.

You can vacuum it, sweep it, mop it, hose it down. 

As for the flake it's going no where and it's durable it's a poly product.

If you did decide to put a clear epoxy over the top I would look to put non slip beads into it otherwise if it is in an area that gets we like from kids coming in and out of a pool into the room they would be sliding all over the place.

Note this product is indoors only it has no UV stabiliser in it.

[mich1972]

@CSParnell  How is your flooring holding up in your workshop mate ? Is there any wear and tear or is it really tough and resilient 😀😀

[CSParnell]

Hey @mich1972 

No issues at all with the epoxy product.

I would say like most applications it's all in the preparation, spend the time in making sure the surface is as good as it can be to accept the product and follow the instructions to the T.

I am going to do my Garage floor next.