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I had some roof work done but the eaves around the house were left rough. I need to tackle painting myself. This photo is typical of the eaves all around.
I plan to put up some square primed moulding in the corners first (specifically this) then undercoat the eaves and then paint with white exterior paint. I also have some wooden framing that needs to be painted
My questions:
- Is the moulding right for the job? The shape matches the upstairs eaves
- Is it ok to fit directly using a brad nailer (like this) - i.e., no pre-drilling required?
- What is the best nail gauge for the job?
- What is the recommended kind of paint for the eaves undercoat and top coat and what would be recommended for other wood framing (all white)
- Is beading a realistic DIY job or should I call in a pro!
Hi @stdoubt,
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community.
The answer to a question like "is this a realistic D.I.Y. project?" is always a resounding "yes!" around here. We have loads of helpful members sharing inspiration and advice on the site every day, so we're sure you will get the support you need to build your confidence and get a successful result.
Our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. expert @EricL will be happy to tackle your questions as soon as possible. Let me also tag some other helpful members to see if they can share their thoughts in the meantime: @Jewelleryrescue, @TedBear, @MikeTNZ and @DIY4Knuckleheds.
Looking forward to seeing your project come to fruition.
Jason
Afternoon @stdoubt
I like your way of thinking, Id possible undercoat the DAR first before installing it just to give it a little more protection.
Now for your questions-
- If its the same shape id stay with it. Things look odd when they are mis-matching
- Pine DAR should be fine for use with that nailgun.
-Nail gauge mmmm not sure but DAR + eve thickness + say 20mm at least = what length Id be using. Eves are around the 5mm mark thick I think.
- Not sure what type of paint but stopping off at the paint section of bunnings will help in matching what you already have for sure.
- Yes definently a doable job, just make sure you think twice up on ladders (listen to that little guy that says "lets move the ladder instead of stretch that half a foot" 
)
You can alway buy a length of DAR and see how it looks when you do it yourself before jumping all in. Just think of that guy who steps outside in his pjs to get the pape rand stands back and looks at the new roof... Yep, Its a beautiful feeling!
Dave
Hello @stdoubt
My apologies for the late reply. It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Dave-1 and @Jewelleryrescue. Allow me to add a few more suggestions to the recommendations made.
- Aside from getting the same shape of moulding, I also propose getting H3 treated moulding if possible. It will last much longer out in the open.
- I recommend a combination of Selleys Liquid Nails and the brad nailer to hold the bead in place.
- Dave-1's suggestion is spot on which is bead + eve thickness +20mm. I propose doing a test fire of the brad nailer so that you can adjust the firing depth.
- In regards to paint, I suggest making sure that it is rated for exterior use. The popular brands are Dulux Weathersheild, Taubmans Sunproof and British Paints 4 Seasons.
- If you plan ahead, you should be able to do this as a D.I.Y. project.
Since you'll be working at height, I suggest reading this guide - How to use ladders safely by @Adam_W.
Please make sure to wear personal protection such as gloves and goggles when working on your project.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
