How to close gap between sliding door frame and glass panel?

[lm4]

Hi all,

We have recently noticed a small gap in between our external sliding door frame and the "static" glass panel. It seems previous owners have attempted to patch the gap up with some sealant, but this looks like it needs replacing (especially where there is clear line of sight from inside the house to outside!)

I was wondering what a good way to go about fixing this would be? Initially I was thinking that I could get someone in to better align the frame and the panel (it appears to be installed at a slight angle, with the gap growing the closer you get to the floor), but not sure if this is a realistic option?

If realignment is not possible, would look to clean out the existing sealant and redo this. Thinking of using "filler rod" to fill majority of the gap and then go over both the internal and external sides with Exterior Gap Filler (https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-430g-white-no-more-gaps-exterior-gap-filler_p1230161) 

Any thoughts on the two options above would be greatly appreciated.

Gap growing down the frameExternal SealingGapInternal SealingGap #2

[EricL]

Hello @lm4

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's brilliant to have you join us, and thank you for sharing your question about your sliding glass door frame. 

It looks like the original rubber seal at the end of the fixed door has deteriorated and the previous owner simply tried to cover it up with a silicone sealant. It would have been an adequate repair had they removed the old rubber seal and sealed it from both sides. If you can manage to move the fixed door by removing its locking screw, you should be able to replace the entire rubber seal itself.

I recommend bringing the old seal to the store and having a look at the Moroday Rubber Seals and seeing if there is a compatible profile that will work. If there aren't any, I suggest going with your proposed solution of using a "Gap Filler Rod" and sealing both sides with Selleys No More Gaps. Your last option would be to engage the services of a professional aluminium door repair person.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[lm4]

Hi @EricL,

Thanks so much for your response. I will have a go at adjusting the fixed door and see if I can get to the rubber seal for a full replacement. Are there any videos or guides that you would recommend for doing this? Just want to ensure I don't end up making the gap worse!

Thanks,

Lachlan

[EricL]

HI @lm4 (Lachlan)

If you're not keen on taking your door apart, I propose trying this method, see if you can slide the damaged sealer out with a flathead screwdriver. From the way it looks, it seems like it is already very brittle. If you are successful, I recommend pushing the gap filler rod into the space and applying the Sellys No More Gaps.   

However, if the rubber sealer refuses to budge and puts up a fight odds are it still has some life left in it. If that's the case, I suggest leaving it alone and only filling in the empty space that no longer has a rubber seal on it. I'm sorry, but I currently don't have a video guide for this. 

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[lm4]

Hi @EricL ,

Thanks very much for your suggestions, I finally got round to doing this the other day. Clearing out the old/loose sealing with a flathead and then filling with gap filler rod worked very well. I did this as far down as I could (the old seal was a bit better at the bottom of the door, so left that alone), and then applied No More Gaps on both the external and internal sides.

Thanks again,

Lachlan

[Jewelleryrescue]

HI @lm4 

A  new flat  thin bladed stanley knife  will cut that sillicone  like steam Just insert the knife in past the silicon bead and move up or down holding the blade so it is  cutting  at 45 degree angle as a guide. Make more passes if you need to  the screw drive  can  be used  to help  remove silicon remains.

Just be mindfull a  sharp blade  can  cut in to and notch aluminium so try slide it past no aggressing  knife angles. 

I would  use  black  silicone masked up each  side of you application strip Or  does no more gaps come in darker shades?  If that gap very big use rod other wise  a standard silicon  caulking gun and tube applicator cut to a wider 45 degree  outlet would be fine too.

Clean up silicon messes with a  turps  on a rag and that will also smooth down  a rough bead shape

[EricL]

Hi @lm4

Thank you very much for the update, would it be possible for you to post a picture of the repaired gap in the window? I'm sure our members will find it very useful as a reference should they need to repair something similar.

Eric

[lm4]

Hi Eric,

No problems at all. It was our first time sealing with silicone so definitely not a professional finish, but does the job well.

@Jewelleryrescuethanks for the tips, will keep it in mind next time!

Cheers

  

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @lm4 

For a first time silicon sealing job  great work it looks like it always being there great its black in color it really suits.

I cant see the base  of your door if it trys to leak again silicon with you new skills along the bottom too if you have not already but i am sure you have.

That water always finds a way use remaining silicone in cartridge sooner not later as it is starting to cure slowly in the tube once opened this saves buying a new tube.

I try stacking silicon  jobs up in a row  so they can all be done at once it helps save on costs. As you can use same nozzle on  bigger job too.