How to install solid timber wall shelves?

[AussieBeth]

Hi all,

We're creating a home office in a small bedroom and want to install wall shelves (see chicken scratch sketch below for context).

We have one long wall with a short adjacent wall with a window that, ideally, we'd love to max out for additional shelf space otherwise its just an unusable corner (this is not 100% needed though).

The original idea was just to blue-and-yellow Scandi store approach this - pre dressed and schmicky shelves (we don't need anything fancy) are either 80cm or 120cm. We'd ideally like the brackets to be evenly spaced for aesthetic purposes but that's not strictly necessary either. Not keen on floating shelves nor tackling a custom build, the former for strength reasons and the later for time reasons, so looking to either:

a) Source timber in a length that suits the wall and stud span (don't mind a cut/match up in middle, so long as the brackets allow for a really solid, strong shelf) - but the depth of the shelf needs to be at least 25cm, and I can't seem to find an option this deep on website. We'd get this cut to size and finish/stain/seal at home, but that's about the extent of our abilities. This is our preferred option.

b) Bung up a pre-made shelf product (like the Scandi store) with all the same allowances made for stud placement and including a little overhang etc. Perhaps there's a Bunnings product that better fits our measurements? The less 'join ups' the better (hard to ensure they're all level with lots of separate pieces).

I can't for the life of me find a solution to either option. Either I can't find a hardwood length at least 2.6-2.8 m with a 25cm depth, or I can't find an individual shelf length that allows for even bracket placement on the studs. Like I said, not fancy people, don't need this to be particular moustache-twirlingly-satisfying, they just need to be solid, even, able to withstand the weight of a full shelf of books, and just a sprinkling of aesthetics.

Oh, and in case the images aren't clear, the more bookshelf real estate the better, so they'll start around 50cm from the ceiling and probably be replicated 3, hopefully 4 shelves down the wall (for whatever span solution we can gather).

(LHS wall is the front face of a BIR, which has drawers that extend out beyond the doors, so the left end point of the shelves will have to be fixed in roughly that spot).

So, questions:

1) Does Bunnings sell a 25cm deep DAR Tasmanian Oak in a length that would work for this project?

2) Does anyone else?

3) Any other recommended products along these lines?

Cheers!

Stud placement and wall length

Overall vibe (ignore the lean!)

Ideal scenario ('L' shaped) but not *strictly* necessary

[Noyade]

Hi Beth @AussieBeth 

You did mention...

"nor tackling a custom build"

But just to throw it out there - a homemade component system that can be made piecemeal. Each component is randomly sized and you go at your own pace and each piece has a backing which does mean stud location is crucial. Attached by coach bolts which are hidden by books. They're just 295mm radiata pine with a whitewash and polyurethane finish.

No brackets required.

 

[AussieBeth]

Hi Noyade,

Trying to visualise how you've put this together - are you able to pull books out of a section and take a close up of the coach bolts? Ta!

[Noyade]

Apologies for the brevity last night @AussieBeth. I've had recent hand surgery and it seems to have affected my brain lately. If there is one.

"Randomly" was wrong. The bookcases were made depending on the size and weight of the books and there is symmetry of sorts. But I guess it is like constructing Lego against a wall. And not just 295mm depth - there is 150mm and 250mm as well - all depends on the book sizes. It was a wraparound concept that started in one corner with a clockwise movement that negotiated a window, built-in cupboards and a door with some of it being floor to ceiling. No space was deemed too small.

Around 15 bookshelves were built and attached by their backing. I forget the Bunnings product - but 12mm tongue and groove pine, securely attached piece by piece to the backs with glue and MANY screws.

Positioned with clamps and support poles - and screwed into the studs, not with Coach heads (memory loss), but 100mm Type 17 Bugle Timber Screws.

This was all 6-7 years ago. Not for everyone I guess - but for me, it kept a few tonnes of books and magazines off the floor.

Cheers.

Screwed to studs.

PS - I love your drawings above! 👍

[JacobZ]

Hi @AussieBeth,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop, it's great to have you with us and having received some advice from one of our wonderfully knowledgeable members @Noyade.

Just to answer your first questions, Bunnings supplier for Tas Oak is Abelwood. They produce both a 235mm x 19mm and a 285mm x 19mm Tas Oak timber profile in a variety of lengths. If you wanted to order this, I would advise speaking to the Special Orders desk at your local store for assistance with availability and ordering.

These could be attached to the wall using stayed brackets of a suitable size and aesthetic. I would be aiming to have one on every stud you can find along the length of the shelves. I would attach these to the studs using timber screws that are at least 70mm long to ensure the weight is transferred deep into the stud.

Let me know what you think and if you'd like any further assistance. Please also keep us updated as your project commences, as it would be brilliant to see what you come up with.

Jacob

[AussieBeth]

Hi Jacob,

Thanks for this - it's super helpful! I had no idea I could special order in.

Am I right in assuming that we can order in (up to) 3m lengths and that it just needs a bit of stain/lacquer and we'd be good to go? Hate to confirm my (obvious) ignorance here but not entirely sure the sanding requirements for DAR.

Thanks

[JacobZ]

Hi @AussieBeth,

You'd have to confirm with your local store what can be ordered as it all comes down to availability at the time of purchase. As it is what we refer to as an "off-range" order, they would have to make enquiries with the supplier before anything is certain.

DAR is generally very smooth with sharp edges as it has gone through a process of planing to bring it down to it's size at the time of sale. They are usually very close to ready for staining, but I'd still advise giving things a once over with some 120-grit sandpaper before applying any stain or lacquer.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Jacob