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Hi everyone,
I am slowly restoring my heritage home (built aprox 1890's) I am currently trying to divide my original double hung window (no sash cord/pulley etc ever installed but slides very well). I need to divide the rooms along the blue line to allow a toilet room with small hand basin on the right (hot water service to be relocated) and a separate room on the left which won't be used for shower or as a wet room. I do not wish to interfere with the sewer plumbing for the toilet and therefore need to divide the window. After countless hours pondering what to do I have come up with a few options.
Option 1
Leave upper and lower window panes in their closed position and install window mounted exhaust fans either side in the upper window pane. I would install a timber fake mullion down the midline with foam seal against the window to allow the stud to marry up to this. I am concerned the noise this would cause on a daily basis.
Option 2
Leave the upper window in the fully closed up position and raise the lower window enough to install an opening floor vent (similar to this https://www.bunnings.com.au/accord-10-x-30cm-antique-brass-marquis-floor-register_p0810309 ) mounted in marine ply to seal the opening around the vent. This way I can open the vent to allow air flow and can close the vent to prevent airflow if cold/wet weather (this window is rarely exposed to direct rain or heavy weather) I am not familiar with these vents and if their closed position provides adequate air seal. Obviously it would be possible to attach insect screen material on the outside of this vent to avoid insects entering.
Option 3
Install an centre mullion and 2 casement windows which open into each room due to bars outside the window preventing outward opening. Whilst more ideal I can see this being a far more complex and labour intensive process
Option 4
Retrofit the window with a centre mullion and custom make double hung windows both sides with salvaged old timber windows. I am confident this would look nice however would likely be an extremely challenging and demanding process
I have considered retrofitting louvre glass windows either side however when this was quoted it is cost prohibitive (aprox $1300 supply only)
I would be doing the work myself and am confident with the timberwork and have fully restored the all the old timber double hung windows in my place. The image attached is an older image in my renos and shows the original arrangement of the window with the upper pane lowered to its resting position with insect screen material stapled in position.
I look forward to your suggestions/thoughts
Glad to hear you've found a solution @Ben2065. As we don't sell Cedar and Oregon, I'm not particularly familiar with their longevity. We do have H3-treated Pine, which when painted and sealed, will last for an exceptionally long time exposed to the weather.
Mitchell
Hi @Ben2065,
I'd recommend the 112 x 112mm 2.4m post h3-treated pine laminated losp fj as it's much more stable and less prone to warping. It's also been milled to a smooth finish, so it has a much nicer appearance.
Mitchell
Hi @Ben2065,
"Would 70mm studs be acceptable?" That's a question best left to an engineer. I'm unsure if the construction code stipulates that an internal non-loadbearing wall needs to be constructed with 90mm studs. 70mm studs are seen quite commonly in areas with no more than 2700mm high walls. The reason we use 90mm studs is for their additional structural nature, and if they need to be notched to run utilities there is plenty of room in their thickness for that. If you were to notch a 70mm stud, there wouldn't be much left of it.
Villaboard can be used if you want to retain the 4mm difference between it (6mm) and plasterboard (10mm). However, plasterboard typically allows a higher level of finish.
Mitchell
Hi @MitchellMc
I understand that 90X45 would be ideal. I am still considering 70mm framing as all the existing framing is 70X45 oregon installed prior to my ownership. I am obviously reluctant to pull out the old oregon framing! I have attached a sketch of my plan to modify the window. Does this look a reasonable plan? Obviously the multiple planks of 140X45 H3 pine would be fixed together with screws to hold them as a compact laminated but not glued post. The post would be screwed into the window frame. Unfortunately my computer skills are not as good as my carpentry skills and the 4 planks of 140X45 H3 are all the same size but in the drawing they are not to scale on thickness. I welcome your advice/suggestions. I assume blue board for the exterior cladding on the left side of the window would have much greater life than say marine plywood.
Hi @Ben2065,
I'm not entirely sure I understand the section with the 140 x 45mm timber. I presume that it's stood on its end. I'm not a carpenter, but I would continue the new wall frame through the window to the point of the external blueboard.
Always use blueboard, as marine ply is not a suitable external cladding.
It sounds like you are planning on framing the left-hand side of the window. If so, I've spent some time putting a plan together. Here are some renderings for you.
Mitchell
